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  • 5
  • American vegan eclectic cuisine at its best

Entering 21 Oak is like stepping back into the past, namely 25 years ago into It’s Only Natural. I mean this as a very good thing. Think back to 1990, when Ken Bergeron was still the head chef and owner of ION 1.0 at its original location on Main St, a block north of where ION 3.0 recently relocated. The décor was simple and yet comfortable, the vegan food wholesome and appealing (Ken, along with most of his faithful customers, had transitioned out of macrobiotics), the portions generous, and the prices just right. Likewise now for 21 Oak. Eerily, Shawn the head chef and owner of 21 Oak even bears a very striking resemblance to Ken both in looks and in peaceful demeanor. While Manchester may be out of the way, once within Manchester 21 Oak is easy to find, a half a block off Main St in the center of downtown. The restaurant is small (seats 26), hence the menu is short, but covers the breadth of American vegan eclectic cuisine. Vegetables and grains take the center stage that they deserve. My one complaint is the white flour flatbread, which however can be substituted with wholesome and oil-free Mary’s Gone Crackers, so do ask instead for the crackers. Among the appetizers I highly recommend the signature Brussels sprouts. Even when not in season, the Brussels sprouts here are delectable. (I recommend also the beet chutney, the sweet potato mash, and the barley cakes, but those were dropped from the ever-changing menu.) When it first opened, it maintained with the very highest nutritional standards. For instance, no mock meats and no deep-fried foods. Four years later, it has descended a few notches. For instance, one or two mock meats, which make a mockery of vegetarianism, have crept onto the menu. But 21 Oak is still way up there in nutrition heaven compared to most other veg eateries in CT. For example, it now offers fresh veggie juices. While desserts vary daily, I recommend the raw vegan cheesecake, which initially in 2015 cost only $6. For the same quality (though not all OG) and same quantity, compare that with $15 charged at G-Zen. While G-Zen may be the best veg restaurant in CT and RI, that does not mean I rate G-Zen as my favorite. Rather, I rate 21 Oak as my favorite veg restaurant in CT and RI. And apparently it has become others’ favorite restaurant too, as there sometimes are long waits just to sit down. So if you plan on eating during dinner hours, on weekends you might want to phone ahead to check on wait times. Updated from previous review on 2016-01-03


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