Bargi Sabz

This is a very rare find: a local vegetarian restaurant in Central Asia – the only one in Tajikistan!

First, how to find it: it’s walking distance from the Citadel/Museum, Hesion Hotel, and Grand Hotel – don’t let the taxi drivers drive you to Green Market or on the other side of river - in fact, don't take taxis at all. As you exit Hesion hotel, with your back to the hotel, turn left on the main road and walk to the first Traffic Light (TL). Turn left, cross the main road and pass the first TL. Just before you reach the second TL, you will see the Bargi Subz in a new building to your right – if you reach the second TL, you have gone too far.

It has wonderful salads and Tajik dishes including Kurtop. Also take some Lavash to go. They also sell cookies and other sweets that you can take for a long road trip. Mirzo is extremely helpful, kept restaurant open just for me so I can have dinner the day I arrived, and even walked me to the taxi stand to get me into Dushanbe bound shared taxi – one can’t expect better hospitality than this!

Traveling in Tajikistan you don´t really expect to find some vegetarian places, because of the omnipresence of the meat. So it was like a little miracle to discover "Bargi Sabz" in Khunjand.

In a well air-conditioned room one get dinner of soup, ragout, regional dishes, salad and dessert only for 2-3€. With a lot of vegan options.