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- Faded Glory
The Birchwood has evolved from a once-pleasant, veg-friendly neighborhood cafe with great food and earnest, (albeit mediocre), service, that was always tops on my list for dining out with omnivore friends or reviving myself with a mid-afternoon coffee and dessert. No more, and disappointingly so. Although I'd love to patronize a neighborhood establishment, I have been consistently disappointed over several years now, and have basically taken it off my list. Owner Tracey Singleton has developed a Jim Jones-like influence over her staff who function as adoring cult members. Their loyalty is a more important requisite than any culinary talent, and it shows in the final product. Food is mediocre to poor at best, often of such inventive contrivance as to be ridiculous rather than appetizing. Servers are haughty and inattentive; they impress upon me their awareness that I am (no longer) a 'regular' and serve me with disdain. The atmosphere is marginally dirty, and unpleasantly loud. Vegetarian choices are poor or absent on any given day. Sure, there are meatless salads and desserts, but if you're looking for a veg "meal" you may not find it here. Tables are small and in too close proximity for private conversation, especially over the ambient noise level. Desserts, salads and other items from the display case sometimes appear old, and often have that stale, too-long refrigerated texture and taste. Guests place their order at a central buffet counter, and have an overview of the kitchen staff at work. Regrettably, this only serves to make the diner more aware of the sanitation breaches that seem ubiquitous. Yes, these things probably happen in more private kitchens, and I'm glad not to know about these transgressions. To so boldly and flagrantly disregard standard sanitary practices in full view of clientele is an unappetizing amount of hubris. My review is strongly worded because my experience is has been strongly negative. I can't imagine dining at this place unless you're a Singleton groupie, or a member or her cafe-sponsored bike team. There are so many really good choices these days, that this faded glory bears no consideration.