HappyCow's Vegetarian Guide to Travels in
French Polynesia: Tahiti and Moorea
Iaorana and Bonjour ~ Fresh flower-scented air warmly greets you as you escape from the airport into the outskirts of town, Tahiti, French Polynesia. Also known as "Pearl of the Pacific," the Polynesian islands are home to abundant natural wonders and beauty: sweet fruits, fragrant blossoms, lush jagged mountains, and crystal blue waters that glisten in the sun. Welcome to paradise!
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French Polynesia consists of a cluster of small islands in the Pacific Ocean to the northeast of Australia, about midway between Hawaii and New Zealand. The most famous and inhabited of these islands include Tahiti, Moorea, and Bora Bora. Newlyweds and sea lovers worldwide come to the islands for the ultimate dream vacation and tropical island getaways. Undoubtedly the seascape inspires dream and romance. |
| Like a rainbow of blues, crystal, teal, tourquoise, and acquamarine, the coastal water is so clear that one can watch the fish play all day long.
The locals are Polynesian islanders with tan skin, thick and frizzy black hair, and round dark eyes -- beautiful, mild mannered, and warm. Their modern day diet consists of mainly fresh seafood, canned and frozen processed meats, combined with tropical fruits and local vegetables such as papaya, pineapple, breadfruit, coconut, taro, bananas, red and purple potatoes. |
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island bananas |
Everywhere, including heavily French and tourist populated towns like Papeete in Tahiti, vegetarian food is scarce. Restaurant menus predominantly focus on seafood, imported meats, cheese, and French style pastries smoothered in butter. Very little vegetables is offered if at all! Throuhout the day you will pass by people taking bites from salami and cheese baquette sandwiches.
Foodwise, there is really no obvious choice for vegetarian and vegan travelers to this region of the world. Locals, the French, and tourist all eat meats, cheeses, seafood, roots and fruits. One will not find any very vegetarian-friendly restaurants or health food stores. |
HappyCow's Vegetarian Traveler's Guide to Restaurant Dining in Tahiti and Moorea
Restaurants often use monosodium glutamate (MSG), so make sure ask about it if that is of concern to you. Vegetarian pizzas will likely contain mushrooms and veggies from cans, and they often do not taste very fresh or good. Most restaurants do offer at least 1 ovo-lacto vegetable salad which could likely be made vegan upon request - just ask! If you eat dairy and eggs, you will be able to find a couple things from most restaurant menus. But if your diet is vegan, good luck -- well, you can always resort to baquette topped with lettuce, tomatoes, and cucumber you buy from the market and make it yourself.
noni fruits everywhere |
On the positive side, you will abundant find fresh locally grown fruits at most conventional markets and some roadside fruit stands. And if you have access to a kitchen, you can buy locally grown vegetables like potatoes, taros, lettuce, cucumber, etc... and make your own meals.
Word to the wise vegetarian: bring some foods with you, maybe dried nuts, energy bars, cereal mixes, nutritional supplements, etc... You will want them. You can always supplement your daily diet with lots of fresh locally grown fruits. And if you pescatarians don't mind eating fish, the catch here is always fresh.
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Places where you will find some vegetarian foods while in French Polynesia
In Tahiti,
- Mobile Food Stalls at the main Papeete Ferry Plaza in Tahiti. At sunset each evening around 18:00, approximately 10 fast food mobile vendors set up tables for casual dinners cooking up sizzling hot Chinese, Italian, and local cuisine. Prices are around FR$900-1300 for each vegetarian fry rice or chao mien/fry noodle dish. Food is served usually with a basket of baquettes - a local tradition adopted from French influence. Note that MSG is often added, so ask to leave it out. Ingredients used are conventional, so the quality is not particulary good or healthy, but one can at least get an all vegetables only dish here. Advice: come early and be the first person to order so food and cooking utentsil are not contaminated with meats orders. Vendors accept only cash in local currency.
- Papeete Market just across from the main Ferry Plaza 1 block in from the main road, Tahiti. From morning until late afternoon each day, dozens of vendors sell locally grown fruits and vegetables, fresh flowers, souvenirs, clothes, seafood and meats. There are also fast food booths selling mostly non-vegetarian foods. Cash only.
In Moorea,
- Sheraton Resort off the main road in Pihaena, northern coast Moorea. The outdoor cafe and bar sits on a lovely sandy beach by the water and is open everyday. Lunch menu features mostly seafood dishes but also offers 1 grilled vegetables sandwich and 2 lacto-veg salads all of which can be made vegan upon request. Mini baquette rolls are served with meal. Fresh juices and fruit sorbet available. Dinners are available at the restaurant inside the resort where the menu consists of 2 vegetarian options though special requests may be accommodated - just ask. International credit cards are accepted.
- Champion Supermarket on the main road in Vaiare just south of the Ferry Pier, eastern coast Moorea. A large conventional supermarket that sells everything one needs, but products are conventional and not organic nor necessary healthy or vegan - including packaged and dry conventional foods, bottled water, locally grown and imported fresh fruits and vegetables, and others. International credit cards are accepted.
- Farmer's Market on the main road in Maharepa at Centre Socredo shopping square just west of airport, eastern north coast Moorea. There are usually 2-3 small farmer market stands that sell locally grown seasonal fruits and vegetables like papayas, cucumber, red and purple potatoes, tomatoes, and seasonal produce. Days open may vary depending on produce availability. Cash only.
- Magasin ABC - General Store on main road in Hauru at Le Petit Village next to gas station, western coast Moorea. Moderate size conventional store that carries some fresh fruits and vegetables both locally grown and imported - new stock on Tuesdays and Fridays. Merchandise is mostly packaged and dry conventional foods (not vegan). Onsite bakery makes fresh baquettes and pastries each morning. Open daily. NOTE: the gas station next door sells a few locally grown seasonal produce like pineapples, cucumber, limes, papayas, etc... at fair prices. International credit cards are accepted.
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